Back issues. Like, back when it was a quarterly.

I’ve been publishing Argentfork since 2004, the year the Sons of Tito Francona broke the curse of the Bambino. Since then, I’ve eaten pig’s head, Samish oysters and Castelvetrano olives, drunk No. 209 gin, Cahors wine and New Belgium Tripel—and written about all of them. Dig in.

  • A few honest thoughts about wine
    WINE Jul 09

    A few honest thoughts about wine

    I would cook and drink the fruity red cooperative wine and ponder what bottle to pull from the cellar beneath the stairs. The bottles came with the same fruit, but in more controlled blends, with less of a co-op’s democracy.

  • A history of hot oil

    A history of hot oil

    I like my chicken, like myself, with the bones intact. Bones are evidence of life, and it’s life, after all, that flavors a living thing. Meat hanging to bones is evidence of some plan, a design rendered by something beyond man to give him nature and character.

  • A few of my favorite things
    TASTES Jan 09

    A few of my favorite things

    When I was a teen, there was a fad to design flavored snack crackers and then sell them with pretend names. Like Chicken in a Biskit. Artificially flavored and preserved for posterity, these things got in my blood. They are the original bad taste in my mouth.

  • Pleased to meat me
    STEAK Oct 08

    Pleased to meat me

    The Avalon Supper Club seemed to be where the sweetest of the herd went when they died, their loins no longer girded but trimmed, their flanks overrun, a butcher’s steel sticking out of their ribs, their bloodied parts laid out like tender spoils.

  • To properly egg
    EGGS Jul 08

    To properly egg

    Finger the egg on its broad end, as the roundness lends stability. Keep the egg loose in the hand, not only to prevent crushing but also to keep from diverting the energy to the arm, where it is misspent.

  • The offal truth

    The offal truth

    Scots legend William “Braveheart” Wallace was dispensed at Smithfield, having given Edward I fits for years. Befitting the time and place, he was disemboweled—through a six-pack stomach, if we are to believe the depiction on the monument at Elderslie.

  • A taste of death
    UMAMI Jan 08

    A taste of death

    We never say, “You were what you ate.” We are a people of the present, and, mercifully, death ends the reliance on the adage. As the eater no longer is bound by earthly appetite, our duty to codify a diner by her diet, a drinker by his drafts is likewise relieved.

  • The coney and the cantor
    HOT DOGS Oct 07

    The coney and the cantor

    In a famous newsreel, Rita Hayworth has come home from somewhere sporting a topcoat. A reporter sticks a microphone in her face and asks her how it feels to be back in America. She says she just wants to eat a hot dog.

  • A French remembrance

    A French remembrance

    I made a right and was at the threshold of Monsieur and Madame Peyras. With seven butchers in a town of 1700, it took me awhile to find Chez Peyras, and I was wasting no time sampling their coffers.

  • More classic German engineering
    ALDI Apr 07

    More classic German engineering

    Price can be a beacon; often, though, it’s a rocky point, and there are many places one can dash. Price matters, always. If it didn’t, there would be no ALDI. Maybe there shouldn’t be, but the market is a forceful dynamic, once established not easily moved.

  • A love supreme
    PIZZA Jan 07

    A love supreme

    My ambrosia would be as follows: an ultra-thin, crispy crust, barely thick enough to steady a Nerf ball, lathered in Ligurian olive oil; studded with tiny morels, several cloves of Carpathian garlic, roasted, and pan-fried shavings of Iberian ham.

  • Anatomy of a cassoulet
    PORK + BEANS Oct 06

    Anatomy of a cassoulet

    Cassoulet, to the cook, becomes an emblem of desire, for one must truly need a cassoulet in order to make it from scratch. It's too fussy, though being fussy and demanding of the cook—and the eater—is part of its charm.