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Barbecue to the rescue

WHOLE-HOG Jan 10
  • Barbecue to the rescue

Porcine cutting board, 1-inch thick wood, John Julius Kurt, 1950s. Photo by Kelly S. Kurt

I arrive at the restaurant ahead of Alias Emcee and take a booth near the window, where all the booths, come to think of it, are. I am early, no, the Alias is late. The waitress, caring only that I am alone, sets a yeasty roll and a thimble of butter in front of me. I order tea, sweet, thinking but not—as if recanting a psalm. I wouldn’t swear, but I think I’m sitting in the shell of an old Ma Bell’s burger joint operated by former Sooner tightend Darin Berryhill in the late 1980s. Now, it’s called the Golden Saddle, Nasim Salari’s barbecue, steak and Mediterranean bazaar, home of the Barrel Racer (a 6-ounce sirloin) and the Bronco Buster (a $17 T-Bone). The Golden Saddle rides east on a whiff of wood smoke and grease, and west with the night.