Back issues. Like, back when it was a quarterly.

Horchata, et cetera

FIRST THINGS Apr 04
  • Horchata, et cetera

Add for Chufi, a Spanish brand of chufa, or horchata. You drink it.

Horchata always intimidated me, gurgling in its tank like roiling milk, until I learned it was dairy at all but steeped rice. Then I learned that nothing is better for calming the mouth after a fiery batch of tacos. In Spain, it isn’t rice but chufa that makes horchata. The tiny, tuberous roots of an African plant of the sedge family, chufa “nuts” have a brown, bumpy skin and a sweet, chestnut-like flavor. In the gringo taquerias I haunt, horchata was in hiding until Vampire Weekend sang “In December drinking horchata …” on its second album. OK, it’s still in hiding.