Stack of sheep’s brebis, Ajaccio, Corsica. Photo by Kelly S. Kurt
Things soured quickly in Montsalvy. Just after lunch, in fact: a leaden affair of galettes and gizzard salad. We walked into the modest town square to find an auction underway. Folks were peddling their cows and the air was rank with straw, hoof and warm manure. The Auvergne cowboys smiled beneath winter caps and heifers breathed icy snot. Steam seeped off the grassy dung piling up in the town square. It was deepest foreshadowing.