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The offal truth

VARIETY MEATS Apr 08
  • The offal truth

Meat market, La Boqueria, Barcelona. Photo by Kelly S. Kurt

Squatters, ravers, Marxists, green thumbs and, before them all, the Clerkenwell smokers of bacon and ham, occupied the Georgian townhouse now perfumed by Fergus Henderson’s kitchens. The dining room walls have been painted white to provide a canvas for his reveries. It all comes together within a cow’s low of Smithfield, the center of London bloodletting for centuries. Scots legend William “Braveheart” Wallace was dispensed at Smithfield, having given Edward I fits for years. Befitting the time and place, he was disemboweled—through a six-pack stomach, if we are to believe the depiction on the monument at Elderslie.